Secrets to a Good Dog

Developing a confident stay at home dog

Developing a puppy and dog who feels confident when alone is a very important part of pooch parenting. Dogs who do not fee safe and confident while alone, are dogs who will bark and howl relentlessly, destroy a home and even worse mutilate their own body with obsessive licking and chewing.  These are dogs who literally feel a sense of panic when not in the company of their human. 

 Even if your intention is to work from home and take your pocket sized pooch with you on every allowable occasion - your dog WILL need to be alone at times and making sure he is happy to have some quiet time is crucial! 

 Here are five things to do to prevent your dog from panicking when left alone:

1. Always give your dog something to work on when you are gone. This includes puzzle toys stuffed with food - such as a Kong, Tricky Treat Ball, Atomic Ball or Busy Buddy.

2. Start early! Do not get a puppy and spend the first few weeks home from work with it 24/7.  If you are home with your dog, set up your regular work day routine right away! If you stay at home during the day - still carve out 3-4 hours where you separate your dog from you.

3. Teach your dog that his crate is a great place. Dogs who feel confident crated are dog who will travel well, board well, and will feel less stress when they have to stay at the vet or groomer.

4. Keep your comings and goings calm. Do not lavish your dog with attention just before leaving him - causing him to get excited - then closing the door in his face! Also, when you get home, set down your bags, check your voicemail - all while dog gets his excitmenet out. Then, when he is a bit more calm, ask that he sit and give him some calm attemtion. 

5. If you see signs of stress or anxiety (a dog who barks, howls, urinates, refuses to eat, stcratches at doors) when your dog is left alone - address it right away with a trainer. This is not something that will just sort itself out. Your dog needs some help!

 Warm wags!

Colleen  

 

 

 

Dogs love fleas!

Oh, I am just too witty.   Go on with my bad self. Dogs hate fleas.  So do we,  but what's a blog without a teaser title? Just a blog (just like this).

 There is one type of flea that most everyone loves and that's a flea market. Today, I headed out to the Brimfield antique show. It's one of the biggest markets in the US  and a toal must-do for any lover of vintage, industrial, repurposed, reclaimed, upcycled, eco-friendly or full of lead hazardous items!   It's a must for everyone.

Brimfield runs three times per season in May, July and September. It's a 5 day event each time.  There over over 5000 dealers at the show! It stretches a mile long on both sides of the road (and about 1/4 mile deep on each side!). It's massive!

There are always fun dog themed items, but even better, lots of dogs to distract me from over purchasing! I must say, all dogs were very well behaved. It's always so great to see that front clasp harnesses have really caught on too! My favorite is the Sense-ation harness by Softouchconcepts. I saw at least 10 dogs wearing a front clasp harness throughout the day yesterday.

If you are not familiar, front clasp harnesses were developed specifically to enable better physical control of a dog's body and discourage pulling. They are a non-aversive training tool, and a great aid in the pulling dilemma. Humane trainers love them!

Here are some of the dog friends I met and talked to along the way.

The first few I met weren't very talkative. I noticed this guy's soft, simple eyes and his birthdate was 1975.  Dog ownership and mania has increased over the years. This piece reminded me though - people have always commissioned portraits, sketches and paintings.  It's not new (and certainly wasn't new to the 70s). Dogs have always been worthy of immortalizing. Cloning is the modern dog owner's option.

These guys didn't answer me when I asked if they were related. They continued their blank stare when asked how they felt about being referred to as Boston Terrorists instead of  Terriers. I started thinking they looked a bit on guard, and potentially had something to do with that flying pig's demise. Could Tweety Bird  have played a role in this as well?

This guy was breaking the rules. There's always one in the crowd, right? He was off-leash. I just we can cut him some slack given that he was working. He didn't have much time to talk to me as he was brokering a deal between his owner and a haggler looking for a steal. Score:  Dog 1 - Haggler 0.

 This tre magnifique trio of Westies were gossiping about the Brimfield afterhours. Apparently, everyone selling at the show spends the evenings together camping, gathering, cooking and celebrating their day's sales. These girls had all the scoop, and were a bit tired from the previous night's festivities.

 

Last but not least, I had the pleasure of meeting this very proud strollin' Pomeranian. He's quite the distinguished gentlemen. His parents had a packed a cooler and blanket for him. He is 13 years young and was rescued from a shelter. He asked me to take his photo this second time. The first time around he didn't feel he had his chin held proudly. I think he nailed it in this one!

 

All and all we enjoyed our outing. The dogs of Far Far Acres will just love the water fountain we scored for them too!  

Check out www.brimfield.com to get your vintage dog fix!

If you have a pulling dog, check out www.softouchconcepts.com

Warm wags!

Colleen

From skateboard phobia to free wheelin' rider

 A wee bit over a decade ago, a friend of mine was riding on a subway. She saw a cute young Chihuahua riding in a bag thrown over the shoulder of a trendy Brooklyn vixen.   My dog-loving friend immediately stormed the woman and her dog, "Can I maul (ok, really she said pet) your dog?"    The woman quickly quipped, "Nope.  You can hand her this treat though.  She's fearful of people reaching at her head in the bag."     After some chat, my friend went on to say, "My friend (referring to me) is trying to become a dog trainer."    As luck would have it, that  Brooklyn girl  was Denise Herman - dog trainer and owner of Empire of the Dog.   Denise replied, "Tell her to give me a call. I'm a trainer and always need apprentices."       Lucky me and lucky Pi to have this talented owner and mentor.  

Flash forward all these years, Pi is now 11 and Denise is still a vixen. The cool part, Denise and Pi are still teamed up, tackling any behavior issue that crops up as Pi has evolved from puppy to senior.   Most recently, Denise turned Pi's skateboard fear into talent  with a training technique called free-shaping. 

Free shaping requires waiting for a dog to offer actions on her own; rewarding the dog for small approximations towards an ulitmate goal.   A trainer does not give guidance during this type of training.  Rather the trainer "shapes" the behavior by offering rewards for small snippets of behavior freely offered by the animal. Over time, the trainer increases their criteria as they move toward reaching the ultimate goal.  

The mind of a free shaping savvy dog is brilliant to watch (as you'll see).   Watch as Pi offers a behavior and then automatically checks back in with Denise to see...."was that it?"     

 In this case, the ultimate goal is skateboard riding. Check out Denise's free shaping session with Pi here!

Skate & Destroy from Denise Herman on Vimeo.

 To begin this process,  it's likely that Denise started by laying the skateboard on the floor. Any time Pi looked, sniffed or took a step towards the board, her behavior was marked with a clicker (you hear the clicker in the video) and rewarded with a treat.  The sound of the clicker tells Pi - she's onto something. Think of your use of the phrase, "Good dog,"  when your dog sits for you.   Those words tell your dog that he nailed the behavior and (hopefully) will be rewarded for doing so.      The clicker is a quick, consistent, precise way of delivering information to a dog during the training process. 

During a free shaping session,  a dog's brain really starts working. "What will make that thing click?"  Over time, Pi connects her actions to the sound of the clicker and food reward.  By rewarding each behavior, Denise increases the likelihood that Pi will offer the behavior again (and as you can see...it works!)  As Pi grows more confident and understanding of what is delivering her the treats,  Denise slowly increases her criteria.   Pi must go from approaching the skateboard to touching it with her paws.    To begin, one paw will do.  Next Denise wants to see movement of the board.   Notice that Denise is clear (by not clicking) that she is not looking for Pi to scratch the board. When the scratching goes unmarked/unrewarded, Pi will catch on and the behavior will cease. 

Denise's training plan for free shaping a free wheelin' Pi  would look something like this. Keep in mind, that for each dog, you're criteria would change a bit depending on what the dog was offering.

1. Look at board - click/treat

2. Move toward board - click/treat

3. Sniff/touch board - click/treat (have to becareful that dog does not think sniffing is the behavior you are looking for though!)

4. Paw touch to board - click treat

5. Move Board - click/treat

6. Multiple paws/Stand on board - click/treat

7. Duration on board - click/ treat

With each session, Pi progesses towards the ultimate goal of riding. Taking up boarding at 77 years of age! Not too shabby. Hope I can follow in Pi's paw prints!

Free shaping can be used to train any behavior from extremely simple to quite complex. A reward based trainer with learning theory know-how can help you and your dog with free shaping behavior and tricks. For a trainer in your area check www.apdt.com.

Denise (and Pi) can be found at www.empireofthedog.com  and BONUS she's starting a skateboarding class!

 Warm wags!

Colleen

 

Treat'm well! Food as reinforcement - rewards

I don't want to train with treats because....

1. I don't want my dog to get fat.

2. I want my dog to work for me - not food.

3. My dog has a sensitive stomach.

 

Here's why you should scrap all these silly notions and get on with training your dog - in a very effective way.

1. Use crumb size  - When using food as reinforcment - make your rewards, crumb like and very tiny in size. By doing so, your dog will never get sick, fat or full!   Never in over a decade of dog training, have I experienced a dog balk at the size of my dispensed rewards.    A shred of chicken is just fine and a low sodium hot dog is enough to make 200 training rewards. You must also think of these training rewards as part of your dog's overall daily food intake.  Not extra treats.   Training rewards should factor into your dog's caloric intake and daily allowance.

2.  The fastest way to your dog's brain is likely through his stomach. If my dog were working out of pure love for me, I'd be flattered.  At the end of the day though, do I really care if the reason she is blasting toward me at 20 miles per hour away from a road  is becasue she thinks she might get a nibble of something?  No, I care that she is responsive and safe. We need to get over our egos!  Your dog loves you and you'll be all that more powerful if you convince him that you dole out good stuff!   Humans are usually most willing to work for money.  Your dog is likely most willing to put out his best work (and feel well-compensated) when earning food rewards.  

3. If your dog has a sensitive stomach,  then you must investigate what works. Don't categorize all food as bad. You are greatly limiting  your potential by totally ruling food rewards out of your training program.   There is an entire list of  ingredients that make up you dog's food!   Carrots, chicken, lamb, raspberries, peas, bison, lick of a yoghund frozen yogurt, tuna -there's  loads of food out there to try!

 Now, it's important to realize that using food as reinforcement in your training program is  NOT the only type of motivator you should incroorate into your training program.  My dog has a very strong drive for the game of fetch and tennis balls.   I train her with every toss of the ball.

You never want to limit yourself to one type of reward . Whether it's food, play, toys or your praise - strong training programs include motivation tools of ALL kinds. If your dog wants it - use it (so long as it's safe). 

Warm wags!

Colleen

Good Dog Tip - Teaching your dog to politely communicate his needs and desires

Your dog learns from every interaction. Over time those interactions shape the habits that your dog develops and practices routinely.  

If your dog barks at you to gain attention, or to tell you that he is hungry and you respond accordingly by petting him, talking to him, or getting up and making him a meal - you are training him to bark. 

In the reverse, if each time your dog barks, you completely ignore the behavior - like you didn't even hear it - instead waiting for your dog to finally sit down - you are teaching him to sit to get what he wants.  With each failed attempt at using his bark to get a response from you, the bark will fade from his behavior repetoire (at least in terms of demanding things!) and sitting will be his new way of telling you he wants something.

This is like teaching the difference between saying, "Hey, give me dinner. I want it now," and "I would love some dinner, please."

Woofs!

Colleen

  

 

 

My place or yours? Custom Play Date Cards

My last entry stressed the importance of early socialization.

Socializing with your dog  is of course a life long process  though, and that is what you can justify these brilliant playdate cards.

 While it's not completely necessary to be so hip in how you socialize - the hip pup has more fun!

 Check out these custom playdate cards available on Etsy.com.  

http://www.etsy.com/listing/63837666/doggie-play-date-calling-cards?ref=v1_other_1

They take the awkward out of, "my place of yours."

 Happy gallivanting.

Colleen

Time for a puppy party! For puppies, early learning goes a long way

Each and every week, I have countless discussions with new puppy parents about the importance of starting training and socialization early.  

Most recently, a new puppy owner told me that her breeder instructed her to only bring in a dog walker or trainer after 16 weeks of age, when the pup would be vaccinated.  The woman and her puppy were instructed to remain holed up in an NYC apartment for over two months!  I was shocked and a bit angry. How can you give such misguided advice?

When new human babies come home from the hospital, what happens? The house is inundated with guests. Yes, some households may instruct people to wash hands etc, but point being, it's a round robin for the mom and baby.  So, you've got humans bringing in, and possibly exposing communicable disease and virus to new human babies, but for puppies, we need to totally quarantine them!? Out of fear that a human might bring something in - on their shoes!? BAD ADVICE!  

Once I speak to new puppy parents, most agree and understand the logic behind my position of "get your puppy out and about from minute one."    

BUT then, three days later, they head off to a veterinarian (schooled many years ago before animal behaviour was part of the veterinarian curriculum) that believes puppies should be quarantined until they are 16 weeks of age. Drat! Hurdle two!

Now, it's me,  the dog trainer "get your puppy out and about," versus good ole' DOCTOR so and so, "you would be irresposible to take your young puppy out before vaccinating."

This has been going on for a full decade (for me). I normally try to do my best to softly step around the blatant, "THAT'S BAD ADVICE," mouth explosion, but now I'm blowing the lid on it. 

If your vet instructs you to keep your puppy indoors, it's time to ask questions.  

Modern veterinarians, who are keeping up on the latest with animal behaviour, encourage puppy parents to start socializing their dog right away! The quote below is pulled directly from the position statment of the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior:

The primary and most important time for puppy socialization is the first three months of life. During this time puppies should be exposed to as many new people, animals, stimuli and environments as can be achieved safely and without causing over­stimulation manifested as excessive fear, with­drawal or avoidance behavior. For this reason, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior believes that it should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated.

You may read the full position statement here:
http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/images/stories/Position_Statements/puppy%20socialization.pdf  

Dr. Ian Dubar (rock star vet-behaviorist) recommends that a  puppy meets 100 new people before the age of three months! So, get your puppy treats, people snacks and throw a puppy party!

Why all the fuss? Why is socialization so important? Behaviour problems are the number one cause of death for young dogs. It's not thenumerous dieases that we're warned to protect our dogs from, but behaviour problems (asvabonline.org).    Millions of dogs are surrender to shleters each year as a result of behaviour. These behaviour problems are most often the result of a lack of early socialization and training. 

Young animal brains are little sponges ready to absorb the world. This developmental stage however is fast and fleeting. Your puppy is most likely to acclimate and accept people and animals early on. Once that fleeting phase of developmental passes (after 12 weeks), you will need to work immensely harder to make up for the missed opportunities. Even then, your work may not pay off.   

Here are some things you can do to socialize your puppy:

1. Enroll in a puppy socialization class.

2. Throw a puppy party (invite people to visit you and your puppy).

3. Sit on a park bench and people watch with your puppy.

4. Sit near a playground where kids will zoom by fast and fleeting.

5. Take your pup to the groomer or vet for short quick "treat" sessions.

6. Take your pup shopping to dog-friendly retail stores.

7. Take your pup to a sidewalk cafe.  All of the above experiences should be positive for your puppy. That means, you control the environment. Pair these occasions with treats or games, teaching your pup that new people are fun and delicious (ha!).

Use your pup's regular kibble when meeting adults, "Can you give my puppy a piece of food?" When meeting children, use high value items, like boiled chicken, tiny crumbles of cheese.  This will teach your puppy that kids (while a bit loud or squirmy) are wonderful to be around!  When playing with other animals, do your best to not over-protect your puppy. It can be difficult, but remember that puppy and dog play looks a bit rough and tumble. Nibbling ears, open mouths, sing-song like growls are all very normal.   

Allow your puppy to do his thing and engage in normal dog wrestling. If you are unsure of what's normal - attend a puppy class to view off leash play. Tick-tock goes the clock - get your puppy out and about! I'm off to visit a wee 8 week old pup who just arrived home on Saturday. After me, he likely just needs to meet 95 or so people in the next month!

Warm wags!

Colleen  

Canine Influenza: all seasons are flu seasons for dogs

You might read the title and think, but it's the end of flu season. Isn't this news a bit late? Winter is the notorious flu season for humans, but for our furry friends, canine influenza is not a seasonal, but year round health issue. We recently had a scare at my dog camp.

Quite unfortunately, a doggy packed and brought along a very unwelcomed guest; canine influenza - H3N8. This sent us into quarantine mode and racing to best contain the spread, treat anyone that became symptomatic and educate pet parents on the possible exposure. It was our first exposure to a respiratory virus and let's hope our last (I enjoy setting unrealistic goals). 

Some may scratch their head and say, "I can't believe she is admitting the flu came through her doors."   Pet parents need to understand that canine influenza is not the fault of daycares, grooming salons, dog training centers, veterinary offices, pet supply stores, boarding facilities and kennels. How the business reacts to the flu is important; but keeping a social canine environment completely free of viruses is as easy as it is to keep a school or office free of viruses. Pesky viruses are a part of human and canine socializing. In leading a healthy, normal life, at times, your dog (and you) will be at risk of catching a virus.  

Here's the 411 on Canine Influenza:
Canine flu is new. It mutated in 2004 from equine influenza and first started popping up in racing kennels amongst greyhounds. It has since spread to the pet dog population.

Who is at risk?
Because this is a new virus, dogs have zero natural immunity. If exposed to the virus, 100% of dogs will contract the flu and 80% will show symptoms. The 20% of dogs that do not show symptoms are still capable of spreading the virus - the silent spreaders!

How does it spread?
Through coughing and sneezing aerosols, direct contact (kissy licks with other canine friends) and contaminated items (bowls, collars, leashes, clothing of someone who touched an infected dog, hands).

Symptoms:  
The most telling symptom is a cough, which if often described by owners as "he's trying to clear his throat." Your dog may also run a fever and have some nasal discharge (from a secondary infection).

Should I see my vet?
Yes, there is a risk that canine influenza can lead to a secondary infection. If your dog is coughing - immediately schedule  an appointment with your veterinarian. While the virus itself (like our cold and flu) is not treatable by antibiotics, a round should be prescribed to ward off the chance of a secondary infection.

Is this the same thing as kennel cough?
NO. It is different and should be treated by your veterinarian differently. Because this is new, some dogs are misdiagnosed with "kennel cough." As a result they are given the wrong antibiotic . Please understand that clinical symptoms alone cannot determine whether your dog has bordetella (kennel cough) or canine influenza. The only way to confirm this is through lab testing.  If your veterinarian does not run a lab test, it is very important to be sure to confirm that your dog is prescribed a  "broad spectrum" antibiotic  - not just an antibiotic that works well for bordetella. It is also important NOT to give your dog cough suppressant which is often recommended for kennel cough. The cough is an important part to getting healthier and working through canine influenza.  So, if you have NOT confirmed the virus through a lab test - do NOT suppress the cough.

Vaccination:
There is a vaccination available, but if exposed, your dog will still contract canine influenza. The vaccination will simply decrease symptoms and decrease your dog's contagiousness (though he will still be contagious!).  The vaccination has NOT caught on yet as part of the routine vaccination package. If  you live in an area where your dog will frequently come into contact with other dogs, goes to the dog run, joys doggy daycare, has vacation at social boarding facilities - I advise asking your vet for this vaccination.

How serious is Canine Influenza?
80% of dogs contract a mild form of influenza. It is a health inconvenience, but with good supportive care and a round of antibiotics they fully recover within two weeks. 20 percent of dogs have cases that lead to complications and secondary infections, like pneumonia. 1-5% can lead to death. Canine influenza can quickly turn to pneumonia and monitoring your dog's energy, appetite and fever are important.

When to worry:
If your dog develops nasal discharge, this is likely the result of a secondary infection. If your dog becomes lethargic or refuses to eat - an emergency room visit is in order. Chest xrays will determine if the virus has spread the lungs.

How long will my dog be contagious?   
Canine influenza has a relatively short shedding phase (by comparison to kennel cough). Dogs are most contagious during incubation (this is how it silently spreads) and for the first fews days after becoming symptomatic. Cessation of shedding occurs at  7-10days from the time the dog becomes symptomatic.

So, there you go. That is the skinny on canine flu. Please remember that I am not a vet and working together with your vet is the best way to fight off canine influenza. 

As a pet parent, just remember there are differences between bordetella  (kennel cough) and canine influenza. Work with your veterinarian and confirm that  your dog is not just being treated generically for "kennel cough"  without testing.  For more information - search the internet!

Spring flowers and furless kids without runny noses cannot come fast enough!

Warm, cough free wags!

Colleen